The Magic Formula.
INTERVIEW WITH ELIZABETH ABEGG
Spell is probably the most successful fashion label to come from the Byron Shire. Renowned around the globe for their bohemian designs and sustainable business practises, what some people might not know is that Elizabeth Abegg and her sister Isabella Pennefather got their start in a tiny corner of the local arts and industry estate, and the Byron markets.
Looking back, was being able to take baby steps with the business a big part of its success?
Yeah, 100 per cent. Having an affordable office space that was the size we needed at the time definitely helped. Even at the beginning, we subdivided it, and had three other artists sharing with us, which allowed us to get a studio, when I always thought that would be completely out of our reach. And it was really affordable. Very different to now. That definitely helped when we were living hand to mouth and only doing the Byron market once a month. We actually started off with a little mezzanine space in another shed. Before that Spelly (Isabella Pennefather) designed out of her wardrobe and it was just the market. Then it was the mezzanine and just the market. And then it was the shared studio and just the market. Then we opened up a little shop in front of the studio, which didn't make that much money, but it was another opportunity to grow.
When did you make your first big step?
So that was the first store in town on Fletcher Street. And from there we went and bought a place on Browning Street, where we still are now. At the same time, we outgrew our studio office, so we got a second place in one of those business hubs around the corner, which was perfect. We moved there but left the design team at the studio, but then it became silly having the two offices, so we all moved back into one location, which is in the big building we currently rent. So, it was constantly moving as we grew. Now, because we outgrew the warehouse at the back of our place, we got another warehouse around the corner.
Do you think it would be harder to do all that now?
Maybe. Once you're making money you can find warehouse spaces that are rundown for a pretty good price. It's more if you're at the local markets level, I think rents could now be prohibitive for those little brands starting out. When I tell people what we used to pay it's just unheard of. And thinking back, whenever people were looking for places, you could always find them. Businesses are always growing and contracting, so they're often willing to subdivide a space. Or if they're growing too big then they'll need to take the place next door and you're able to share.
Why do you think Byron has so many entrepreneurs?
I've always spoken very fondly of the arts and industry estate. Obviously, every little town has an industrial area, but for me, coming from big cities, I've never lived near one. I've always lived in places like Bondi or St Kilda, so it was completely out of my realm of possibility to have a large space for a business like mine. Then, when we came here, I did all of a sudden. Having all these little multi-dimensional businesses, big and small, so close to where we live and the local retail area is incredible, especially for a small town.
Does it feel like Byron has changed from being so reliant on tourism?
It's changed, but I think the people that live here don't usually have a huge amount of disposable income, so you're still relying on the people that come here from the cities, whether they're moving here or just visiting, to spend the big dollars. You can definitely feel it from a retail perspective when the town is quiet. When the town's not bustling with people from Melbourne and Sydney people start saying, “It's really quiet at the moment.” It's not like you can just rely on all the people that have moved here either, because they're all busy working in the industrial estate and just going to yoga. Also, a lot of the people that live here now are so affluent that they're probably not going to cute little stores in town anyway. They're buying beautiful furniture internationally and shopping at amazing places overseas. They're not shopping at Scallywags.
Do you think having more people starting new businesses forms a richer culture?
Yeah, there's lots of exciting things being made in the industrial estate, like lots of fashion brands. There's probably more retail spaces than necessary. I'd rather see more creators than shops, personally, because it doesn't help to have people walking around shopping out there. It just makes a place that's already super packed, worse. It's hard, because the streets are narrow, and there's nowhere to park, but it's still nice to see lots of independent businesses running out of there. It's just a pity that there's not solutions for it being overcrowded. I'm not complaining, I love that there's still small businesses, but I don't know whether there's as many surfboard shapers and candle makers anymore. So, while there's more happening, it might not be as diverse.
How has being based in the Shire influenced your business?
We’ve made a lot of changes in our business to try to find balance with our impact on the planet–something that's inspired by being based in this part of the world. We've mapped our supply chain, reduced and offset our carbon, and supported lots of important causes through our giving back program. ▲